Overview
Two hours west of Portland the land runs out. This is the mouth of the Columbia River, where a four-mile-wide estuary meets the open Pacific — a stretch of water sailors named the Graveyard of the Pacific, with more than two thousand wrecks on the bottom. On top of it sits Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, a hillside of clapboard houses and derelict canneries that Hollywood has been borrowing since the 1980s. Forty-five minutes south, the same coastline turns into Cannon Beach: cedar-shingled galleries, four miles of flat sand, and a 235-foot monolith standing in the surf.
This is a full day, deliberately. We leave Portland at eight, spend the morning in Astoria — the Goonies House, the hilltop views, Pier 39's 1875 cannery, the great steel bridge — then move down the peninsula to Fort Stevens for Battery Russell and the wreck of the Peter Iredale before lunch. The afternoon belongs to Ecola State Park, where Indian Beach played La Push in Twilight and the headland above it stood in for the Fratellis' hideout in The Goonies, and then to Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock, timed to the tide. Ten stops, four and a half hours of driving, and one guide who has done the loop enough to know when to talk and when not to.